TEOCHEW cuisine hails from the Guangdong province of China, primarily in the city of Chaozhou (or Chiu Chow in Cantonese) from which it takes its name. The cuisine is particularly well-known for its seafood dishes and distinctive methods of preparation and cooking aimed at retaining the freshness and quality of the ingredients used. Many of its dishes are slow-cooked over a low flame – stewed or slow-braised; steamed; stir-fried; or pickled.
There are not that many restaurants in Kuala Lumpur that offer truly distinctive Teochew dishes. But one of them is Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant at Starhill Gallery in Kuala Lumpur.
The restaurant, which opened for business in July 2005, is affiliated to the renowned Pak Loh Restaurant in Hongkong. Known as its Golden Sister, as such, the Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant here can attest to the authenticity of its dishes.
Chef Alex Au launched his Top 10 Stars of Chiu Chow cuisine in August. The menu is a veritable feast of signature dishes that are often eaten in most traditional Teochew homes but not all are available at eateries.
Among the more 'uncommon' dishes are the Chiu Chow fresh cold crab, slow-braised goose fillet with bean curd, and Chiu Chow warm yam paste with gingko nuts.
The Chiu Chow fresh cold crab is an unusual serving of flower crab, first steamed in its juices, then left to cool before being served chilled with a sweet vinegar and julienned ginger dip. The effect is the "most natural taste" with the dip giving a slight zing to it.
The braised goose is a different take from the usual braised duck found in most local restaurants here. However, this signature dish is common in Hongkong and the goose is flown in from there for Malaysians to enjoy. More tender and meatier than the duck, the slivers of meat is served on top of pieces of slow-braised bean curd that have been soaking in the flavours of the braised stock which has been left to simmer on the stove continuously.
The warm yam dessert is akin to the thick fah sang wu (sweet peanut broth) but not so cloyingly sweet or wet.
The yam slices are steamed till soft, then mashed before cooking in a wok with sugar and vegetable oil (lard was used in the old days), stirring all the while till a fine consistency.
The paste is then steamed in small bowls and served with syrup and gingko nuts on top. And the taste? Lip-smacking good to the last dollop!
The restaurant also offers crispy pork, another of its star dishes. Again, while most crispy pork is roasted in the oven or over an open flame, the Teochew style is to wok-roast it so that it is crispy on all sides.
The pork, according to Pak Loh Chiu Chow's assistant manager Stephanie Ng, is roasted only on order to retain the crispness. A deep-fried dish is the silverfish with salt and pepper, which can be an appetiser or part of the main meal itself. The long strips of fried battered fish, crunchy and lightly seasoned, are served mixed in a bed of fried diced garlic, chilli and spring onions as well as a light chilli sauce dip.
Another offering is the Chiu Chow oyster omelette which is half pan-fried for a soft centre filling and half deep-fried for crispier edges. But the tapioca flour added to the batter makes it a trifle too starchy for my taste.
Other top 10 picks on the menu are the Chiu Chow style deep-fried crabmeat and prawn balls; fried chicken with Chiu Chow spices and spring onions (served with a bed of deep-fried spinach leaves); fried long beans with preserved palm (dried olive leaves) and minced pork; and oyster rice porridge with minced pork.
Prices of the dishes range from RM12++ per bowl for the yam paste dessert to RM38++ each for the goose and crab dish.
Food aside, the restaurant also practises a long-held Teochew tradition of serving guests a welcome tea called ganghu tea.
Also known as kung fu tea, this Chaozhou tea ceremony involves serving delicate cups of very strong Oolong tea (the restaurant uses Tie Guan Yin) before the start of the meal. Guests also get a small plate of pickled mustard greens to whet the appetite.
The Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant is located at LG12, Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. It is open daily from noon to 1am. For reservations, call 03-2782 3856.
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